![]() ![]() I opened the Fade example sketch in the Arduino software, and just set my own brightness to test with varying light intensity. Even faster testing is to connect the 5V or 3.3V outputs on the Arduino to the MOSFET (ensure common ground). I hooked up my Arduino to the computer to do some MOSFET testing, it’s very fast to run a program with analogWrite to see if the MOSFET responds to the PWM output. ![]() Wiring of the MOSFET goes: input to Drain, and output to Source. After fixing this, when I apply voltage through PWM from the Atmega, it has the same zero reference (ground), and the gate opens for current. When I place it after the LED strips (negative), the source is connected to ground, and 5V from the Atmega is much higher than the zero volts of ground. That’s a mistake because the gate voltage on the MOSFET is a reference relative to the source, and 5V (full PWM) isn’t much compared to 12V of the flowing current. I placed the MOSFET on high side (positive) of the LED strips. If I wasn’t able to tell you, I wouldn’t be happy at all. Through a 12V AC to DC converter, of course.īut I’m very happy to share why. And I have come to the point where I let the 240 volt wild wall horse loose on my first Atmega project. ![]() This post shows how I am making the circuit board for a shelf light with an Atmel Atmega168 controlling a Mosfet. and coding the AVR, and improving it using Atmel Studio MOSFET IRLB8721. This article is in a series about making a shelf with lights controlled by an AVR. ![]()
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